Thursday 29 November 2012

The Red Giant 1 (Hong Kong, the bridge to China)

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It is 5 pm and the excitement comes over me. I am in Hong Kong, former British colony and today enjoying its status as a special administrative region (SAR) within the People's Republic of China. I hop on the bus that will take me to the city from the airport. The massive skyscrapers make their appearance and it is hard to imagine that this was once a small fishing village. We cannot wait and go to the city center. The city vibrates with energy. Although the sun is already gone, Hong Kong continues illuminated. A feast of colors on all fronts, flashing and dazzling greens, blues, yellows, violets etc. The lights adorn the entrance to every single business and restaurant, and make impossible for the eyes to avoid swallowing thousands of ads. The Gran Vía street in Madrid or Piccadilly Circus in London will from now on look like dead isolated places to me. People flood the streets making of Honk Kong the place where “lively city” takes on the height of its expression. Street markets, restaurant terraces, karaokes and hundreds of stalls where people go for someone to read their future. We walk through a street consisting of dinning places and pick one. Forget about having a table for yourself, the whole street is packed with thousands of other hungry groups, making of Spanish street life a mere beginner.

After a delicious dinner, we go in search of a good club with a local friend. We see some cool places but they are basically empty. I am thinking it is 10 pm and Thursday, most people will work or have class tomorrow and i suppose there is not that much of a partying culture here. I couldn't be more wrong. We were told those places would get full in a few hours, that it was still too early! At this stage i was really wondering if i had perhaps mistaken the flight and i was in Spain, were people are famous for their sleeping abstinence. We made our way to another street were there was literally a different pub or club every second meter. At first i thought of small Jomfru Ane Gade in Aalborg, Denmark, taken in Hong Kong to an extremely larger scale. But since i don't remember too much of my experience in Aalborg due to their wonderful “free drink” tickets, i thought of trying to get some Madrilian districts like Argüelles, Moncloa, Chueca and Huertas into just one street. This comparison is just to get an idea of the number of clubs and people in that street in Hong Kong. Anyway, think of a very busy street in any European city, full of clubs and you will get a glimpse of what i am talking about. Lots of clubs with beer, wine, cubatas, cocktails, Djs, exorbitant prices, massive black bouncers, drunk girls dancing on the disco bar and the mainstream music you can listen to anywhere in Europe. I would have thought i was in Europe if i hadn't had, despite the large number of foreigners, Asian-looking guys accounting for 90% of the people around me. 

We finally made a move to those places i talked about before to realize that indeed they are full. These are smaller, darker places, alternative to the “mainstream” clubs, where we enjoy other types of music, just as they happen to be in Europe. It is 5 am and as we walk through the streets i can only think that the expression “The city that never sleeps” must have originally been used for Hong Kong. After a delicious “good night” snack, we go back to the flat to sleep, and on the way we see many locals, mostly above 50 years old, who start up their day by doing some excercise and streching in the parks. We leave a vibrant, boiling city behind, and the sun rising. Not bad for a first day in Hong Kong.

The next days in Hong Kong were just as exciting and interesting as the first one. Thanks to the wonderful advantage that my princess is now living in Hong Kong, i had the opportunity to meet quite a few locals and share some of our time with them. If you ever go to Hong Kong, i think you will love the food and the variety: Chinese, Nepalese, Korean, Japanese, Thai, Indian...and this is real stuff, not the fake, although tasty, things they tend to cook in Europe. It was interesting to meet young people from Hong Kong. They were all quite excited about meeting and having westerners as friends. Some had already been to Europe and others could not wait to going there. I had to face some questions like “what are women like in Spain?”, a question i never got to answer properly i suppose. I was told by a girl that women in Hong Kong are still too submissive and not independent enough and that many still expect to be supported by their husband and just ask for money and stuff. I was also asked how things are in Madrid regarding homosexuals and I answered i believe Madrid is a very open place regarding sexuality and other things. I was told in Hong Kong gays are still quite not accepted, at least not well seen. I was also told there is hardly place for art in Hong Kong, that it is an absolutely bussines and consumer oriented organism and as such, art has no value and place in society. That for this reason, homosexuality and other “different” options also have difficulties to make their way in their society.

It is not my purpose to judge all these things on my post, this is simply what i was told. They also talked about the established idea that they must work very hard in order to get a flat in Hong Kong which, by any standards, is inhumanly expensive. I was told the first year of work people do not have paid holidays and the maximum they can get is 14 days a year, after almost 10 years working. I can imagine that taking a two week-vacation in such a bussines environment may be a career-killer in many cases. We talked about the prices and size of the flats and I understand why people stay with their parents home until their late 20s or so (another thing they share with the Spaniards). Of course i just met a few locals, and this small sample is pretty skewed since thay are all university students or people who have been working in Europe and/or have visited other places, such as a guy i met who works as a flight attendant. It was still interesting. Another interesting thing is that i was told people in Hong Kong are very religous and have strong beliefs, being buddhism by far the most embraced religion. I always found fascinating the contradictory path that many people take by defining themselves as very religious. This was, to me, a very good exaple. How Buddhism can be so apparently spread and important in a consumerist city which is considered to be the world's freest economy, with all what that implies. Meanwhile Buddhism is rising in Europe in an attempt to escape from materialism.

We ended the second night by going to Victoria Peak, offering an incredible view of Hong Kong. This panoramic view was accompained by a mixture of feelings. I must admit that although i liked the food, the vibrant city center, the street life etc. of Hong Kong, i was shocked from the beginning with all the malls, advertising, shops, skyscrapers and materialistic attitude that has flourished there. I will not forget the first metro i took, where probably >80% of the people have their heads immersed in their phones, ipads and other devices and where there are screens constantly broadcasting ads (Europe is definitely going towards that). I was there at Victory Peak watching the whole of Hong Kong, million tones of steel and concrete, dazzling lights, the massive harbour and the coastline with its hills, and despite all that thinking of a materialist society, market, business and bla bla bla, i have to say the view was amazing and something i had never seen before.


But just to recover from such an incredible view, we headed next day to the coast line of Hong Kong, where many walking paths welcome those who want to do a bit of excercise either running or simply hiking, and those who want to leave the city and enjoy a bit of beautiful nature. We slept on the beach where we could finally enjoy a sky filled with stars. I do not know whether it is smog from pollution, or simply the high humidity, but do not expect clear skies in Hong Kong city center either during the day or at night. There is this weird mist which really, i don't know if it is mostly due to pollution or simply the weather. The coast line and hills of Hong Kong are beautiful and I strongly recommend to go there. You will also see locals doing one of their favorite things: barbecues. There is no camping or fire restriction there and the coast is filled with many tents of people who want to spend their weekend there, chilling and making barbecues. One thing you really need to have clear in Hong Kong and mainland China is that it is almost impossible to escape from the crowds.



But after a little taste of what Hong Kong can offer, I need to move on and this is when the real adventure comes: mainland China...